Slow Progress
I just returned from two days in Palm Desert and one day in Joshua Tree National Park. The trip to Palm Desert was to attend a class in Native American Literature- mostly concerning the Desert Cultures and with the focus more or less or the Cahuilla.
Although the Cahuilla are at the southern end of the Mojave Desert, and tend to range south and west, they’ve produced relatively more information about themselves and the way they lived than most other tribes of the desert people. There are some interesting cultural overlaps and relationships between the tribes, and by learning what I can about this group of Indians I feel I have an increased perspective on the Serrano, Chemehuevi and Mohave Indians.
Since I was down in that area I wanted to do a little exploring. The lack of any information in the local tourist guide, other than what seemed to be several hundred golf courses, made it easy for me to escape back to the cooler temperatures of the high southern Mojave. Maybe some other time I’ll do some looking around down there.
The morning of the third day of my trip started off with sunrise at Cottonwood Springs in Joshua Tree National Park. Although the spring is located in the Colorado Desert ecozone in the park, it felt good to be back on familiar “turf.” I started off with some bird photos at the spring and documenting the nature trail that winds through the little canyon at the base of the spring. The trail heads north from the spring toward the campground. I followed it along and took a short side trip to the Winona Mill site taking a short break in the shade of the California fan palm trees at the top of the canyon. The nature trail, the deep metates worn into the rock at the spring by the Cahuilla, gave some impact to the bits and pieces I learned over the previous two days.
I stopped at the visitor center to see if I could get yet another ranger to laugh at some of my idiotic jokes; My little plan worked. I also picked up a map and the park newsletter. Outside of the center I met a couple from Quebec. They had come across the desert from Mexico, and before that, Guatamala. They were taking a year off to explore the continent and had stopped by many other National parks on their way south. They asked me about places to camp in the park and I gave a few suggestions. I was a bit surprised to find the Ranger hadn’t mentioned the spring and how it was the closest local attraction. I told them how much fun I had at sunrise taking bird photos and enjoying the shade.
The nice thing, well one of them, about visiting Joshua Tree so often is that I don’t feel obligated to stop at every point of interest along the way up to the Mojave ecozone. I bypassed the Turkey Flats backcountry, Ocotillo patch and Cholla cactus garden. I’ve been to all three of these several times. The last time, about two months ago, the Ocotillo were in full bloom. However, since I drive so slow in the park, I did pull over at the Ocotillo patch interpretive sign to let the lumbering RV’s tailgating me to pass. You know you’re driving slow when you’re leading a string of rental campers trying to shove you along the road. I read the sign from the car. I’m sure I’ve read it before, but I was a bit surprised to find out that the Ocotillo isn’t a cactus. I’ve been stuck by one before- It sure feels like a cactus!
It was early, and I didn’t want to leave the park until after sunset. Before I crossed the transition into the Mojave I remembered I had seen a mine from the road that I had wanted to check out, the Silver Belle. I pulled over and studied the situation. The mine ruins were maybe two or three hundred feet up the side of a mountain (I believe one of the Hexies) and maybe three quarter to one mile away. Distances are very deceptive. I poke along and don’t hurry. The temperature was rising fast from the 88 degrees my handy thermometer indicated. I estimated the little hike would take me about two hours. Looking it all over, I decided it was a “go.”
Please don’t think this decision was made lightly or without proper and experienced consideration. These were borderline conditions for me. If I had this opportunity a week later into the year I would have just kept on driving after checking it out. I thought of a couple incidents in the last few years. One, a man died about a half mile from his car at Amboy Crater. Another instance was a man dying in the heat while hikiing in Death Valley. The heat in this part of the desert is the same, and can be just as deadly. However, even though I had already hiked a couple hours, I was properly hydrated and well rested from the night before. I also wear leather gloves to keep my hands out of the sun, an overly long seersucker headress (because if there is no shade, shade must be made) and a penchant for chickening out if things start to sour in the least. I took a decent drink, filled my canteen and started off.
The first part of the hike was longer than it looked. The vague trail crossed a braided alluvial fan and contained many “ups and downs,” into sandy washes with rocky, cobbled banks. Every few feet the trail changed direction. Nearly as often I kept my bearing by checking out the prominent features of the high ground in front (the mine ruins) and back (a dark outcrop in the hills).
I located the old road that led up to the mine. This went a little quicker than I thought. After another 20 minutes of step by step climbing (looking for snakes etc.) I had reached the ruins. The loading bins provided a nice patch of solid shade. I took a nice long break in it and continued on checking out and photographing the adits. The view from the peak above the mine was outstanding and well worth the walk. Hopefully I got some nice photos of the layout to boot. I started on back.
It was hot. Really, really hot. Water isn’t any good if you don’t drink it so I was very careful to take a sip of two every few minutes. I’ve heard that if you are thirsty, dehydration is already set in. So I take a drink as often as I can- Not too much, but I don’t want to have more than a couple drops left when I get back to the car.
Two hours and five minutes after I left I opened the car door. I put up all my gear, drank the last bit of water in the canteen, refilled it and checked the temperature- 102. It was nicer in the car. I have a sunscreen on the dash and I use shade cloths on the windows facing the sun. I make it a point, and I’m not sure why, to take a break before driving off after a hike, to kind of clear my head and reflect.
It was nearly time for lunch. I drove up to White Tank campground and set up my shade cloths and had me a little snack. Usually I buy a couple of those packages with the lunch meat, cheese and crackers and maybe an orange. The store I had stopped at on the way out of town didn’t have those. Curses. They did have the “deluxe” package though. Twice as much meat, twice as many crackers, AND Dijon mustard! I guess the mustard makes it special or deluxe or whatever you want to call it. The first thing I noticed after opening the package was the little chocolate mint- That was special too! At 105 degrees, it was so sad and yet comical. I ate that first.
I’ve noticed I never “just sit” in the desert. I like to stay on the go and do things (seek shade, drink water). Today I wanted to take some shots of the White Tank Arch at sunset, and that was hours away from my interesting lunch pack. So I sat in the shade. Then I read some. Then I took a nap. Then I sat in the shade. Then I read some. … etc. … ad nauseum. About 4:00 I couldn’t take it any more. I prepared my camera gear and made the short hike to the arch.
The area around the arch is just as fascinating to me as the arch is. I wandered around checking out where to be and what order to make my shots when the sun finally went low in the sky. That took care of maybe 15 minutes. Then I found me some shade and sat. I actually found that more relaxing than my routine back at the car. Me my canteen, camera and a whole bunch of desert.
Folks would happen by every 20 minutes or so. I’d say “hi” and smile. A young family speaking French came by. I enjoyed watching them take turns standing under the formation for photos. The French reminded me of my friends from Quebec. Sure enough, here they came. I really liked these folks and was glad to see them again. We wandered around the rocks awhile and pointed out great shots to each other. We talked a bit more, mostly about the heat. They decided that the Grand Canyon may be more to their liking after Joshua Tree than the previous plan of several days in the Mojave Preserve- where it’s extremely hot right now. We said our good-byes and parted company. I went back to my rock in the shade.
So you leave your seat you risk not getting it back. This is what happened to me. Right where I was sitting a little, tiny lizard sat. I huffed and sat down a few feet away. The lizard stayed. I though it might be a good photo opportunity and unwrapped my camera. The little creature seemed to pose for me. After about five minutes and 10 shots or so we seemed to get bored with each other. I returned to my perch. It didn’t take long, but I thought I needed more shots of the animal. I went to see if my other, “new friend”, was still there. Yep. We commenced with a another photo session. Moving slowly and taking my time I got my lense as close as a foot away. This lizard and nerves of steel. Only one flinch. I thought it must have a nest nearby so I made an effort not to harrass the little reptile.
Finally, the sun got low and I started shooting. The shade from the rocks west of the arch soured the light. Maybe I’ll have better luck in the winter months. I haven’t looked yet, but I think I may have taken the best photos I’ve ever snapped. Maybe not though. Regardless, I had a great day out in the desert and did a few things- slowly.