Desert Gazette

List

Month: March 2025

  • Toll Road Controversy

    The controversy over John Brown’s toll road through Cajon Pass in the mid-19th century revolved around money, fairness, and public access—a classic tension in frontier development.

    Two wagons at the summit. Mormon Rocks and the San Gabriel Mountains in the distance

    1. Brown’s Toll Road and Franchise Rights
    In 1861, San Bernardino County granted John Brown Sr. and his partners a franchise to build a toll road through Cajon Pass, a vital route connecting San Bernardino Valley to the Mojave Desert and beyond. They improved the existing wagon trail—grading it, clearing rock, and making it more passable for wagons—and charged tolls to those using it.

    2. Public Frustration
    While the improvements were appreciated, some settlers and freighters grumbled about the tolls. The road served as a major conduit for travel and trade; paying a toll on what many viewed as a natural thoroughfare didn’t sit well with everyone. The sentiment grew that Brown was profiting off a public necessity.

    3. Competing Routes and Free Road Advocates
    As traffic increased, alternate routes began to be explored, especially by those who wanted to avoid tolls. There were also pushes from the community and local government to establish a public road that would be toll-free. Some even attempted to create alternate trails that bypassed the toll gates, fueling the controversy.

    4. Political Wrangling
    Brown’s toll franchise became entangled in local politics, with supporters arguing it encouraged development and opponents seeing it as a private monopoly over a public passage. This debate sometimes reached county supervisors, and there were calls to revoke or revise the franchise.

    5. Toll Road Decline
    Eventually, as public roads improved and more options became available, the toll road’s importance faded. It’s unclear exactly when tolls stopped, but free passage eventually became the norm, and the road was absorbed into the public road system.

    In short, the controversy was over the balance between private investment and public access, a theme repeated throughout Western expansion. John Brown wasn’t alone—toll roads were common in the 1800s—but he was one of the more talked-about due to its location and importance.

    also see:

    The Toll Road

    Toll Road Through Cajon Pass

  • Weather Drama

    The wind howled across the dunes, a relentless force sweeping through the Mojave. Sand lifted in great plumes, twisting and spiraling like ghostly tendrils before vanishing into the storm. The dunes, usually shifting in slow, steady ripples, now churned violently under the desert sky.

    Beneath the sand’s surface, life waited.

    Deep in a burrow just under the dune crest, a lizard lay still, its body pressed into the cool, shifting grains. Its long, fringed toes, perfect for running atop loose sand, were now curled close. It had felt the first gusts of wind hours ago and knew better than to stay above ground. The sandstorm could last minutes or hours—there was no way to tell. It blinked once, listening to the distant hum of wind rattling through the dunes. Here, under the surface, it was safe.

    Not far away, nestled in a shallow depression among the roots of a creosote bush, a rat twitched its nose, sensing the air. The burrow was snug, lined with bits of dry grass and desert fluff, a perfect refuge from the storm. It had spent the night collecting seeds, stuffing them into its cheek pouches before returning home just as the first gusts began. Now, all it could do was wait. The storm was nothing new—it had survived countless tempests before. But still, the sound of sand scouring the landscape was a reminder of the desert’s power.

    A kit fox, curled in its den, lay in a nearby hollow where two dunes met. Its large ears twitched, sensing the wind’s force above. It had retreated early, sensing the storm’s approach in how the sky had turned a pale, eerie yellow. Hunting would have to wait. The fox licked a grain of sand from its nose and closed its eyes, trusting that when the wind died, the night would bring fresh tracks—signs of prey emerging from their hiding places.

    Gary Nafis – CaliforniaHerps.com

    Out in the open, a sidewinder lay half-buried in the sand, using its unique body shape to anchor itself against the shifting dunes. Unlike the mammals and lizards, it didn’t have a deep burrow, but it had a trick of its own—pressing against the sand and keeping its eyes barely above the surface, it could ride out the storm without being carried away. The wind whipped past, but the snake remained patient as ever.

    Above, a raven battled the gusts, its wings beating against the swirling dust. It wasn’t trapped like the others—it had been caught mid-flight when the storm struck. With a sharp, knowing caw, it adjusted its course and aimed for shelter—an outcrop of rocks on the dune’s edge. There, in the lee of the wind, it could wait, its black feathers blending with the shadows, beak under its wing as if it were a villain.

    The storm raged on, the dunes shifting grain by grain, reshaping the land as they had for thousands of years. But the creatures of the desert were no strangers to its fury. They had learned to listen, to watch, and to wait.

    And when the storm passed, as all storms did, they would emerge once more, leaving only faint tracks in the freshly sculpted sand.

  • Tecopa Hot Springs:

    A Geothermal Oasis in the Mojave Desert

    Tecopa Hot Springs is a natural wonder in the Mojave Desert, where underground forces heat groundwater and bring it to the surface. This small desert town in Inyo County, California, has long been a retreat for those seeking mineral-rich hot water’s relaxing and therapeutic effects. But why is the water hot, and what geological processes make these springs possible? The answer lies deep beneath the surface, where a combination of geothermal activity, faulting, and groundwater circulation work together to create this desert oasis.

    The heat of Tecopa Hot Springs originates from the Earth’s natural geothermal gradient, which refers to how temperature increases with depth. In most places, the Earth’s temperature rises at 25 to 30 degrees Celsius per kilometer. However, heat from the Earth’s interior reaches the surface more efficiently in regions where the Earth’s crust is thinner, such as the Basin and Range Province surrounding Tecopa. These conditions allow groundwater that seeps deep underground to become significantly warmer than at the surface.

    Another key factor in Tecopa’s hot springs is faulting. Faults crisscross the region, fractures in the Earth’s crust where movement occurs. These faults act as pathways, allowing surface water to trickle downward, sometimes traveling thousands of feet below the surface. As the water moves deeper, it encounters hot rock formations, absorbing heat before being pushed back up through fractures in the rock. This process, known as hydrothermal circulation, explains why the water at Tecopa emerges at high temperatures.

    While no active volcanoes exist in Tecopa today, past volcanic activity in the region also heats the groundwater. Ancient magma chambers, which once fueled eruptions and left behind hot rock masses deep underground, continue to radiate heat, warming water as it percolates downward—the mineral content of the water results from the interaction between the groundwater and the surrounding rock formations.

    The Amargosa River system, though mostly underground, further contributes to the presence of hot springs. This river follows fault lines and helps recharge groundwater, maintaining a steady flow of water that moves through the region’s complex network of fractures and underground reservoirs. Over time, this slow and steady process has kept the Tecopa Hot Springs active, providing a natural source of hot water even in the arid desert environment.

    The springs at Tecopa are part of a more extensive geothermal system in the Mojave Desert, where similar processes create hot springs and hydrothermal features in other areas. The combination of thin crust, tectonic activity, deep groundwater flow, and remnants of ancient volcanic heat makes Tecopa one of the most accessible geothermal spots in the region. Visitors who soak in the warm waters may not see the underground forces at work, but they are experiencing a process that has shaped the desert landscape for countless years.

    Summary

    Tecopa Hot Springs is a natural geothermal oasis in the Mojave Desert, where underground heat warms groundwater, bringing it to the surface. The springs result from a thin crust, active faulting, and remnants of past volcanic heat. Water seeps deep underground absorbs heat and rises through fractures. This steady hydrothermal process has sustained the springs for centuries, creating a rare desert retreat with mineral-rich, naturally heated water.

  • Brown – Parker Garage

    The Brown-Parker Auto Company Garage in Goldfield, Nevada, is a historic structure dating back to the early 20th century, reflecting the town’s mining boom era. It was originally established by Munro Brown and Orlo Parker, becoming one of Nevada’s first Ford dealerships.

    In 1917, Brown sold his share to Parker when he left to serve in World War I. The original building was destroyed in a fire in 1923 but was rebuilt in 1924. It continued to operate as an auto garage until 1989. Today, it is a notable stop on the Goldfield Historical Walking Tour, highlighting over 190 historical sites throughout the town. The garage is a reminder of Goldfield’s former prominence and the essential role that automobile services played in supporting the remote mining community.

  • Cactus Cooler

    Don’t try this at home . . . or anywhere else.

    Barrel cacti are tough desert plants that have some pretty interesting survival tricks. They come in different types, but a couple of things are true for all of them. First, the taller ones tend to lean toward the south. Second, despite what you might see in movies, you should never try to drink water from them if you’re stuck in the desert.

    The reason barrel cacti tilt south is all about the sun. For most of the year, the sun is more toward the southern part of the sky. The side of the cactus that faces the sun gets blasted with heat all day, which slows its growth compared to the shadier side. Over time, this uneven growth makes the cactus lean south. Some people even call them “compass cacti” because of this. While this might seem like a handy way to figure out directions, it’s not always reliable. Wind, terrain, and other factors can also influence the way a cactus grows, so it’s not a foolproof method for finding your way.

    Barrel cactus at Piute Creek, Mojave National Preserve

    Another common myth is that you can drink the liquid inside a barrel cactus if you’re dying of thirst. In reality, that’s a terrible idea. First off, these cacti are covered in sharp spines and have a tough outer layer, so getting inside one is no easy task. The effort it takes to cut one open would make you sweat more, which is the last thing you want in a survival situation.

    Even if you do manage to get to the liquid inside, drinking it is likely to make things worse. The juice of a barrel cactus isn’t clean water—it’s filled with bitter chemicals that can make you sick. Most people who drink it end up with horrible stomach problems, including nausea, vomiting, and diarrhea. Losing fluids this way will dehydrate you even faster, which is the exact opposite of what you need in the desert. Instead of saving your life, drinking from a barrel cactus could actually make your situation more dangerous.

    In short, barrel cacti are amazing desert plants, but they’re not a survival tool. Their southward lean is a cool way to see how they adapt to their environment, but it’s not a perfect compass. And no matter how thirsty you are, drinking their juice is nasty. The best way to survive in the desert is to be prepared, carry plenty of water, and know how to find sources of hydration. Appreciating the cactus for what it is—not what Hollywood says it is—can help you stay safe and respect the incredible plants of the desert.

    Summary

    Barrel cacti are well-adapted desert plants known for their ribbed bodies and spines. A notable trait is their tendency to lean southward, earning them the nickname “compass cactus.” While some believe barrel cacti can provide water in survival situations, this is a dangerous misconception.

    Their tough exterior makes extracting liquid difficult, and the fluid inside contains harmful compounds that can cause severe dehydration through nausea and diarrhea. Unlike desert animals that can safely consume plant parts, humans cannot process its toxins. The best survival strategy is proper preparation, carrying enough water, and understanding the limits of natural resources.