Tag: California Desert History

  • Mojave River

    The Mojave River is a strange, beautiful thread of water in California’s high desert. Most of the time, you can’t see it. It hides beneath the sand, popping up only in rare places like Afton Canyon or the Narrows near Victorville. But this ghost river has a long and complicated past tied to shifting earth, ancient climates, lost lakes, and generations of people who relied on it.

    It all began millions of years ago when tectonic forces pushed up the San Bernardino and San Gabriel Mountains. These rising peaks blocked older river systems that used to flow toward the Pacific. With nowhere to go, water from the mountains started pooling in the desert. Over time, a new river formed, trapped within these closed desert basins. That was the beginning of the Mojave River.

    During the Ice Age, things looked very different. The Mojave River wasn’t just a trickle or an underground stream—it was a robust river that flowed year-round, fed by rain and snowmelt from the mountains. It carried water from the San Bernardino Mountains to a series of massive lakes out in the desert: Lake Manix near Barstow and Lake Mojave farther east. These were deep, wide bodies of water teeming with life. Around 18,000 years ago, Lake Manix overflowed, carving the dramatic Afton Canyon and sending a flood of water toward Soda and Silver Lakes, which became Lake Mojave. Fossils from this time show mammoths, saber-toothed cats, and even aquatic life like fish and freshwater snails around the river and lakes.

    When the last Ice Age ended, the climate changed. It got warmer and drier, and the big lakes began to dry up. The river still carried water now and then, but only during the wet season, and it often disappeared underground. Over thousands of years, it became the ghost river we know today. Now, it flows mostly beneath the desert floor, surfacing briefly after storms or in spots where rock formations push it upward.

    Despite its dryness, the Mojave River is the lifeblood of the western Mojave Desert. Its rare surface flows and hidden undercurrents recharge underground aquifers, feed oases, and support all kinds of desert life. You’ll find cottonwood trees, willows, and even small fish like the endangered Mojave tui chub in wetter stretches. Birds rely on it too, especially migratory species that need stopover habitat in the middle of a dry land. Some stretches, like Palisades Ranch and Afton Canyon, are rich in wildlife because of the river’s presence.

    People have followed the Mojave River for thousands of years. Indigenous groups, especially the Vanyume (a branch of the Serrano), lived along its banks and used its waters to survive in the desert. It also became part of significant trade and travel routes, notably the Mojave Road. Spanish explorers like Father Garces followed it in 1776, and American mountain men like Jedediah Smith came through in the 1820s. Later, Mexican traders and Mormon pioneers used it to reach California.

    In the 20th century, towns like Victorville, Barstow, and Daggett grew along the river. They pulled water from its aquifer for agriculture and homes. Over time, more groundwater was pumped out—more than was going back in. This led to water shortages and falling water tables. To fix it, water agencies began regulating pumping and importing water from Northern California to recharge the Mojave Basin. Today, the Mojave Water Agency closely monitors the river’s underground flow.

    Climate change is also reshaping the river’s future. Bigger storms could cause major flooding, but longer droughts make the river even more fragile. Meanwhile, conservation groups are working to protect the remaining green places along the river—removing invasive tamarisk, planting native trees, and safeguarding habitat for birds, fish, and other wildlife.

    So while the Mojave River may not look like much at first glance—just a dry wash running through the desert—it’s the thread that ties together this region’s natural and human story. From Ice Age megafauna to modern groundwater battles, the Mojave River has quietly shaped life in the desert for millennia.

    Sources: https://pubs.usgs.gov/of/2004/1007/mojave/index.htm – USGS: Mojave River Geologic Framework and Groundwater Flow https://pubs.er.usgs.gov/publication/wri024280 – USGS Water Resources Investigations: Mojave River Flow System https://mojavedesert.net/mojave-river/ – Digital Desert: Overview and History of the Mojave River https://digital-desert.com/mojave-river/ – Digital Desert: Detailed Description of the Mojave River Course and Features https://digital-desert.com/mojave-river/east-fork/ – Digital Desert: East Fork of the Mojave River https://digital-desert.com/mojave-river/west-fork/ Digital Desert: West Fork of the Mojave River https://digital-desert.com/natural-mojave-river/ – Digital Desert: The Natural Mojave River https://www.blm.gov/visit/afton-canyon – BLM: Afton Canyon Natural Area https://www.mojavewater.org/ – Mojave Water Agency: Groundwater Management and River Info https://westernrivers.org/where-we-work/california/mojave-river – Western Rivers Conservancy: Mojave River Conservation Projects https://www.mdlt.org/ – Mojave Desert Land Trust: Mojave River Habitat Protection https://nrm.dfg.ca.gov/FileHandler.ashx?DocumentID=83982 – CDFW: Camp Cady Wildlife Area Management Plan https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/fseprd493364.pdf – USDA: Mojave River Watershed Assessment https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mojave_River – Wikipedia entry with references on river history, hydrology, and human use

  • Owens Valley History

    Early Inhabitants and Settlement

    The valley was originally home to the Paiute people, who practiced irrigation to cultivate crops along the riverbanks. In the 19th century, American and English fur trappers and mountain men were among the first non-indigenous individuals to explore the area. The discovery of silver and lead deposits in the nearby Cerro Gordo Mines during the late 1800s led to a mining boom, attracting settlers and leading to the establishment of communities like Keeler.

    Owens Valley Indian War

    Tensions between settlers and the indigenous Paiute people escalated into the Owens Valley Indian War in the early 1860s. Conflicts over land and resources resulted in violent confrontations, leading to significant casualties on both sides. In March 1862, settlers attacked a Paiute camp in the Alabama Hills, resulting in the deaths of eleven Paiutes and the destruction of their food supplies. Subsequent engagements saw the involvement of military forces and further loss of life.

    Water Diversion and the Owens Valley Water Wars

    In the early 20th century, Los Angeles sought to secure water resources to support its growing population. The city constructed the Los Angeles Aqueduct, completed in 1913, to divert water from the Owens River to Los Angeles. This diversion had devastating effects on Owens Valley’s agriculture and led to the drying up of Owens Lake. Local farmers and residents opposed the project, leading to acts of sabotage and legal battles known as the Owens Valley Water Wars. Despite their efforts, Los Angeles maintained control over the water resources, leading to long-term economic and environmental consequences for the valley.

    Manzanar Internment Camp

    During World War II, the U.S. government established the Manzanar War Relocation Center in Owens Valley. From 1942 to 1945, over 10,000 Japanese Americans were forcibly relocated and incarcerated at Manzanar as part of the internment program. The harsh conditions and unjust treatment of these individuals remain a poignant chapter in American history.

    Saline Valley Salt Tram

    An engineering feat of the early 20th century, the Saline Valley Salt Tram was constructed between 1911 and 1913 to transport salt from the Saline Valley over the Inyo Mountains into Owens Valley. Covering a distance of 13.4 miles with steep inclines, it operated intermittently until 1935 and stands as a testament to the industrial endeavors of the era.

    The history of Owens Valley reflects a tapestry of cultural heritage, resource conflicts, and resilience, offering valuable insights into the complexities of development and conservation in the American West.