Desert Gazette

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Tag: desert conservation

  • Mojave River

    The Mojave River is a strange, beautiful thread of water in California’s high desert. Most of the time, you can’t see it. It hides beneath the sand, popping up only in rare places like Afton Canyon or the Narrows near Victorville. But this ghost river has a long and complicated past tied to shifting earth, ancient climates, lost lakes, and generations of people who relied on it.

    It all began millions of years ago when tectonic forces pushed up the San Bernardino and San Gabriel Mountains. These rising peaks blocked older river systems that used to flow toward the Pacific. With nowhere to go, water from the mountains started pooling in the desert. Over time, a new river formed, trapped within these closed desert basins. That was the beginning of the Mojave River.

    During the Ice Age, things looked very different. The Mojave River wasn’t just a trickle or an underground stream—it was a robust river that flowed year-round, fed by rain and snowmelt from the mountains. It carried water from the San Bernardino Mountains to a series of massive lakes out in the desert: Lake Manix near Barstow and Lake Mojave farther east. These were deep, wide bodies of water teeming with life. Around 18,000 years ago, Lake Manix overflowed, carving the dramatic Afton Canyon and sending a flood of water toward Soda and Silver Lakes, which became Lake Mojave. Fossils from this time show mammoths, saber-toothed cats, and even aquatic life like fish and freshwater snails around the river and lakes.

    When the last Ice Age ended, the climate changed. It got warmer and drier, and the big lakes began to dry up. The river still carried water now and then, but only during the wet season, and it often disappeared underground. Over thousands of years, it became the ghost river we know today. Now, it flows mostly beneath the desert floor, surfacing briefly after storms or in spots where rock formations push it upward.

    Despite its dryness, the Mojave River is the lifeblood of the western Mojave Desert. Its rare surface flows and hidden undercurrents recharge underground aquifers, feed oases, and support all kinds of desert life. You’ll find cottonwood trees, willows, and even small fish like the endangered Mojave tui chub in wetter stretches. Birds rely on it too, especially migratory species that need stopover habitat in the middle of a dry land. Some stretches, like Palisades Ranch and Afton Canyon, are rich in wildlife because of the river’s presence.

    People have followed the Mojave River for thousands of years. Indigenous groups, especially the Vanyume (a branch of the Serrano), lived along its banks and used its waters to survive in the desert. It also became part of significant trade and travel routes, notably the Mojave Road. Spanish explorers like Father Garces followed it in 1776, and American mountain men like Jedediah Smith came through in the 1820s. Later, Mexican traders and Mormon pioneers used it to reach California.

    In the 20th century, towns like Victorville, Barstow, and Daggett grew along the river. They pulled water from its aquifer for agriculture and homes. Over time, more groundwater was pumped out—more than was going back in. This led to water shortages and falling water tables. To fix it, water agencies began regulating pumping and importing water from Northern California to recharge the Mojave Basin. Today, the Mojave Water Agency closely monitors the river’s underground flow.

    Climate change is also reshaping the river’s future. Bigger storms could cause major flooding, but longer droughts make the river even more fragile. Meanwhile, conservation groups are working to protect the remaining green places along the river—removing invasive tamarisk, planting native trees, and safeguarding habitat for birds, fish, and other wildlife.

    So while the Mojave River may not look like much at first glance—just a dry wash running through the desert—it’s the thread that ties together this region’s natural and human story. From Ice Age megafauna to modern groundwater battles, the Mojave River has quietly shaped life in the desert for millennia.

    Sources: https://pubs.usgs.gov/of/2004/1007/mojave/index.htm – USGS: Mojave River Geologic Framework and Groundwater Flow https://pubs.er.usgs.gov/publication/wri024280 – USGS Water Resources Investigations: Mojave River Flow System https://mojavedesert.net/mojave-river/ – Digital Desert: Overview and History of the Mojave River https://digital-desert.com/mojave-river/ – Digital Desert: Detailed Description of the Mojave River Course and Features https://digital-desert.com/mojave-river/east-fork/ – Digital Desert: East Fork of the Mojave River https://digital-desert.com/mojave-river/west-fork/ Digital Desert: West Fork of the Mojave River https://digital-desert.com/natural-mojave-river/ – Digital Desert: The Natural Mojave River https://www.blm.gov/visit/afton-canyon – BLM: Afton Canyon Natural Area https://www.mojavewater.org/ – Mojave Water Agency: Groundwater Management and River Info https://westernrivers.org/where-we-work/california/mojave-river – Western Rivers Conservancy: Mojave River Conservation Projects https://www.mdlt.org/ – Mojave Desert Land Trust: Mojave River Habitat Protection https://nrm.dfg.ca.gov/FileHandler.ashx?DocumentID=83982 – CDFW: Camp Cady Wildlife Area Management Plan https://www.fs.usda.gov/Internet/FSE_DOCUMENTS/fseprd493364.pdf – USDA: Mojave River Watershed Assessment https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Mojave_River – Wikipedia entry with references on river history, hydrology, and human use

  • Vandalism in the Mojave

    Vandalism in the Mojave Desert is a sad and serious problem — one that strikes at the heart of both the land’s natural beauty and its long history. For generations, the desert has been a place where time seems to stand still, preserving ancient petroglyphs, pioneer landmarks, and fragile ecosystems. But in recent decades, careless or malicious acts have left scars that, in some cases, can never be repaired.

    Here are a few examples of what has been happening:

    • Graffiti on Rocks and Historic Sites: Ancient petroglyph sites, such as those at Cima Cinder Cones or in the foothills around Ridgecrest, have been defaced with modern spray paint. Some of these rock carvings are thousands of years old, left by Native American cultures who passed through the desert. Once modern graffiti covers them, the original markings can be almost impossible to recover without damaging the rock itself.
    • Destruction of Joshua Trees: Joshua trees, iconic symbols of the Mojave, are often cut down, burned, or knocked over by vandals or irresponsible visitors. These trees take centuries to mature, and once destroyed, they are lost for generations.
    • Abuse of Historic Structures: Old cabins, mining equipment, and stage stops — like those scattered across places such as Panamint Valley, the Old Government Road, or Route 66 — have been broken into, stripped of artifacts, or shot up for target practice. These relics tell the story of the Westward movement, ranching, mining, and early desert survival. Without proper protection and respect, these places vanish.
    • Off-Road Vehicle Damage: Although not always intentional, off-trail driving can damage delicate desert crusts, crush ancient artifacts hidden just beneath the surface, and destroy habitats for rare animals, such as the desert tortoise. Some riders even create unauthorized “tagging” spots with tire tracks or leave behind trash and broken bottles.
    • Campfire and Trash Damage: Illegal campfires scorch desert floors, and piles of garbage left behind by careless visitors mar otherwise pristine spots. Old tires, cans, and broken furniture — all of it doesn’t just look bad; it alters soil chemistry and attracts scavengers that disrupt the natural balance.

    In the past, a person’s word and respect for the land meant something — it was understood that you leave no trace. To take from or harm the desert was seen as a mark of poor character, not adventure.

    Many local groups today, such as High Desert Keepers, Friends of the Mojave Road, the Mojave Desert Land Trust, and various historical societies, work diligently to restore damaged sites, educate visitors, and promote the traditional values of stewardship and personal responsibility.

    It is a reminder that the desert may seem rugged and unchanging, but it is fragile, and when a piece of its story is lost to vandalism, it is lost forever.