Desert Gazette

The last couple years have had pretty much uneventful springs.  This year however, the State Poppy Reserve in the Antelope Valley has really come into its own.

The Reserve features the California poppy, Escholtzia californica, although there are many other wildflowers that can be observed in abundance.  I made two trips out there this month and plan one more in about a week.  While I was there poppies were prolific, but I also spotted; Owl’s clover (Castilleja exserta) , fiddleneck (Amsinckia tessellata), and the annoying, but still rather pretty, red stem filaree (Erodium cicutarium).  I’ve long ago lost the battle with city code enforcement as to whether filaree are weeds or wildflowers.  So I cut ‘em down with the rest of the weeds in my neglected, but “wild”, yard.

The appropriately named “goldfields” (Lasthenia californica), pour out of the washes at the bottoms of the canyons and spread into the valleys and plains beyond. Interspersed among them are the orange poppies. It takes a bit of study to pick out one species from another in the wildly-colored array.

There’s no way you can see it all in one visit.  Aside from pygmy-leaved lupine (Lupinus bicolor) blossoming at the higher elevations, the goldfields below and poppies interspersed throughout, the flowers start at different times, during different conditions. For example, the lacy phacelia (Phacelia cryptantha), I was somewhat disappointed to find out, started blooming the next day after my trip- Apparently like never, ever before.

Click the following for more information on the Poppy Reserve:

http://digital-desert.com/poppy-reserve/

I haven’t paid too much attention to my little scurrying friends in the last couple years.  But lately I found that if I move slow, and talk low, I can sit down right beside them and have a nice little one-sided chat.

This first one is a common side-blotched lizard I became acquainted with during a hike to Keane Springs in Death Valley.

Just behind the right front leg is the identifying side-blotch.  It looks sort of like a halfmoon, or boat shape just inside the shadow.  I was sitting about 3 feet from him/her.  I told the tiny creature (about 6 inches long) that I wasn’t interested in eating right then and thank you for the photo op.

This is another common side-blotched lizard I found roaming around while I was hiking at Amboy Crater in the eastern Mojave.

This creature apparently had been attacked, maybe a year or so ago.  Most lizards have regenerating, breakaway tails.  This comes in handy when a predator grabs it by the tail. The lizard releases the end portion and runs off. The predator gets a little lizard snack instead of a full meal.  The tail eventually grows back as can be seen by the difference in texture on this itty-bitty beast.  Almost seems like a win-win for both predator and prey. Again the identifying side-blotch can be seen on the body just behind the front leg. The lizard was about 8 inches long.  Notice the difference between the design on the back of this lizard and the one from Death Valley above.  I told this animal that their home was in a beautiful place and thanked them for letting me enjoy it with them.  I was kneeling about 3 feet away.

This last lizard is a Mojave fringe-toed lizard I sat next to in a remote sand dune field in the east Mojave.

This lizard was about 9-10 inches long.  I sat about 2 feet from it while talking about how it was the longest, fattest, juciest, looking lizard of its kind I ever seen.  Notice the fringed, or extra long toes on the feet.  These act sort of as snowshoes keeping the tiny little feet from sinking in the sand.  Other features include reversed nostrils and interlocking eyelids.  Both of these help the reptile when under the sand, which they often are to regulate their sensitive body temperature.

I’ve never ate a lizard, but someday I might.

More about desert lizards

http://digital-desert.com/wildlife/lizards/

When I first saw the desert I thought, ‘There’s nothing out there’, and I wanted to see ‘nothing’ closer- Maybe stand in the middle of it and scream or something. When I got there I found it was far more intricate and rich than I could have imagined. The more I saw, the more there was to see, and it’s never stopped or ever will. Never did scream, wouldn’t want to mess it up.

Anyway, I feel like screaming again. I just realized I haven’t posted anything for the months of January and February. This is terrible, because my stats are going up. Every month I get more and more visitors to the site.  It seems like the less I do, the more visitors there are that come to see it. I sure that if I prolong doing nothing I’ll have a very, very, popular website.

I’m used to punching code in by hand. Word by word, letter by letter.  This software program is awkward for me.  It seems like I have to learn it over everytime.  Posting images is a real pain. Maybe I’ll try another way.

–that didn’t work–

This probably isn’t much better:

Sand verbena in lava beds at Amboy Crater.

I was fortunate to be able to shoot two sunsets and one sunrise at this location a couple days ago. The wildflower display was intense and the air was thick with the perfume of the sand verbena (purple flowers on the left).

The crater is a volcanic cone which may have been active as recently as 600-900 years ago. A fun story is that one of the local high schools (50-60 miles away) in the 1950-60s, started a tire fire in the center of the crater during a party. The fire lasted for days and the black smoke could be seen for miles around. Folks driving by thought the volcano was going to errupt and notified the newpapers in Los Angeles- which started a panic of sorts, at least until geologists flew over to investigate. 

Amboy Crater at sunrise (March 2008).

Desert Marigolds and sand verbena

More about Amboy Crater:

http://digital-desert.com/amboy-crater/

And, in reply to a question I was asked regarding whether the crater was in the Mojave or Sonoran Desert;

Geographically and geomorphically the Mojave- Amboy Crater. Otherwise (botanically), I believe the area is an ecotone region between the two deserts; no Joshua trees (Mojave), no ocotillo cactus (Sonoran). Some instances of crucifixion cactus (rare- I believe Sonoran). Some instances of blue palo verde (Sonoran).

Mojave geomorphic region
Ecosubsection - Bullion Mountains - Bristol Lake
http://digital-desert.com/ecosections/322ao.htm

(See section “O” on map at bottom of page of: )
http://digital-desert.com/ecosections/322a.htm

The Sonoran Desert lies to the southeast (within sight).
Sonoran geomorphic region
Ecosubsection - Cadiz, Vidal Valleys
http://digital-desert.com/ecosections/322b.htm

(See section “A” on map at bottom of page of: )
http://digital-desert.com/ecosections/322b.htm

In a few days I’m attending a ‘Rocks and Minerals’, class in Joshua Tree NP. I’ll be spending an extra night in 29 Palms and hope to go through the Cadiz Valley on Monday. I’m hoping to get some shots of the Cadiz Dunes Wilderness area on the trip through this remote area. I’m thinking I may spend the night in my truck and get some shots of the dunes at sunrise- possibly sunset the first night. I’m wrapped. I’ve been eyeing the road on maps for 7-8 years now. Since it is remote and I’ll be out there on Monday and Tuesday, I’ve been making sure my truck is in proper condition.

Since I’m more concerned with the Mojave for my project I’ve been saving this arm of the Sonoran Desert that extends into the Mojave for near the last. Afterwards, (A month or two) I have another road that heads north from Ludlow to Baker that I haven’t been on. That will complete the basics on the California Mojave. Then this fall and beyond I’m hoping to go further north into Nevada, southwest Utah and western Arizona to the mouth of the Grand Canyon.

Sorry for rambling. I’m into my 14th year on my obsession and excited that I’m seeing light at the end of a project I initially thought would take me 5 years.

Not much for art, but a fairly decent illustrative shot.

About this photo;

This is a young, or new, canyon formed by the San Andreas fault which separates the Southern California and Mojave Desert geomorphic regions. The fault runs pretty much down the center of the long canyon, follows the edge of the foothills across the ridge in the distance and passes to the left of San Jacinto Mountain furthest away in the shot.  At the base of San Jacinto Mountain lies Palm Springs. 

Visibility in this photo is about 60 miles.  The high mountain to the left is the 10,000 ft. ridge and Mount San Gorgonio in the San Bernardino National Forest.  San Gorgonio sits on the North American continental plate while San Jacinto sits upon the Pacific plate.  San Jacinto will someday, millions of years from now, move west along the transverse range and sit to the right of where I’m now standing- The Lone Pine Canyon saddle.

One hundred and fifty years ago Mormon settlers came to the canyon and found a single pinyon pine tree about half way up along the way.  Near the pine is where they built the rock shelter where they lived until called back to Zion to go to war with the United States.  The lonely pine still stands today in better condition than the fallen pile of rubble that once was the stone cabin.

Lawman Wyatt Earp’s sister and her husband (Almon Clyde) lived in the canyon later on and planted apple trees.  The orchard still produces sweet apples that when in season, may be bought from the rancher that now owns the place- Sometimes not.  The orchard is high upon a terrace on the side of the mountain, so a thief would have to first brave late summer rattlesnakes in the brush before dodging buckshot.

The odd-looking spire in the foreground is a Lord’s candle yucca.  The flame is gone, but will/may ignite again in several years, if the rain is right.  The big bush front and center is a rubber rabbitbush.  Note that this shrub is the only thing a rabbit will not eat.  Rubber rabbits don’t eat, ’cause they’re rubber. During World War II experiments were made to attempt to extract the rubber from the plant.

To the right, and out of the shot, is Slover Canyon.  This canyon at the head of the Lone Pine canyon is where the last grizzly bear in southern California was killed by Isaac Slover, and interestingly enough, where the last grizzly bear killed Isaac Slover.  That being a whole other canyon is a whole other story, which I’ll save for a time when I get a decent shot.

They are big and they look mean, but Chuckwallas (Sauromalus ater) are harmless herbivores feeding on desert flowers, fruits and leaves. Young chuckwallas are known to try a grasshopper or two, but usually stick entirely to plants by the time they are a year old. Chuckwallas get all their water from the plants they eat and never drink, even when water is readily available. Instead of urination to void their body of salts, these wastes pass through and build in their nostrils as crust which breaks up and falls out when the reptile exhales. They are adept at living in rocky areas under 4,000 feet elevation. As well as dodging into cracks of the rocks in which they live when threatened, they inflate themselves with air making it nearly impossible to remove them by brute strength.

http://digital-desert.com/wildlife/chuckwalla.html 

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As the subject of the shot isn’t outright apparent, well;

Red Rock Canyon is the result of the grinding together of two geomorphic regions, the Mojave Desert and Great Basin. This uplifting takes place along the Garlock fault, which is what is known as a left lateral strike-slip fault. This means that the far side of the shot is moving to the left, and the part I’m standing on is moving to the right (slowly ). I believe the actual faultline is running somewhat through the middle of the shot.

The Garlock fault is the geologic dividing line between the Great Basin Desert, which extends from here north and east encompassing Nevada and western Utah. The Mojave Desert geo-range extends from here south and east to the Baja of California and east to the Colorado River. Botanically, I’m in the Mojave though, and the vegetation series extends north about 150 miles. However, immediately to the west is the Sierra Nevada range (southern).

The haze in the Cantil Valley beyond is the evaporate lifting from Koehn dry lake as it rained rain two days before. Somewhere in the area of the shot there are two caches of 1800s lost silver and gold. The silver was washed from a stagecoach that got caught in one of the canyons during a flash flood and was never found. Charlie Koehn’s lost stash of gold nuggets and jewelry is presumed to be buried in the valley, or foothills. He went to prison for trying to bomb a judge that had ruled against him in a lawsuit. He died in jail, but not until after he had tried to tell his best friend where his gold was. His buddy never found it.

Red Rock Canyon, California State Park

I finally made it, the trip to Little Petroglyph Canyon! Such a beautiful place. It’s easy to see why it would have been sacred to the early people.

There are thousands of carvings throughout the canyon. No one knows what they mean or why they are there.  For some reason this is what I like about them.  The Koso (Timbisha Shoshoni) say they were made by their ancestors.  That’s good for me.

The estimated age range is so broad, 200-8,000 years, maybe even older. Some are very old and covered by other weathered drawings.  Some are covered by lichen, a plant-animal that lives hundreds of years.  Grinding stones (metates) are above the canyons. Possibly where rice grass was ground to powder for flour.  Seeing these makes it easier to visualize people in and above the canyon.

I’ve visited maybe 3 dozen or so other petroglyph and pictograph sites in the desert and mountains.  This is the largest and most pristine of them all.  The site is on a military base, and scheduling the tour, going through the security, search, and the long drive as well as spending a couple nights away was so very worth it.

The guide was very knowlegable. Not just about the site, but the prehistoric people, how they lived, what they ate, and the history of the area from then until now.  Not one of my countless questions were left unanswered.

I was saving this site for last.  I realize now that’s just silly.  There will be more sites I’ll see and maybe I’ll go back to this one.  I don’t know why.  Maybe it is just because nobody knows …

More about Petroglyphs and Petroglyph site photos

The banditos would hide their horses in the clefts in the formation, climb to the top, and keep a lookout- They could see for 20 miles in each direction. The stage would approach, and they would move dustlessly into a deep and shadowy arroyo, then lie in wait.

Vasquez, the ‘Gentleman’, would politely rob them all. But one man refused to give up his watch, a gift from his since departed wife. Vasquez left him with his watch, a gold piece, and his condolence. Once a rich man carried only $200 for him to steal. Vasquez sternly warned him to bring him more next time or he would be a dead rich man.

Tiburcio Vasquez, the last ‘Californio’, was eventually hanged for a murder he did not commit. He died a young man, but the legend of the Robber’s Roost remains.
http://mojavedesert.net/people/vasquez.html

PETROGLYPHS 

Two posts in one month!  Rather productive for me.  Anyway, I’m off in a couple hours to visit a place I’ve been wanting to go to for years now–Renegade Canyon at the China Lake Naval Air Weapons Station (NAWS) near Ridgecrest.  I’ve heard the petroglyphs and canyon are plentiful and very well preserved, and why not?- The U.S. Navy could (and should) nuke vandals if they had a mind to.

I’ve seen too many places that have fallen to ruin because of mindless, souless, thieves that have destroyed and stolen priceless petroglyphs.  I still think they should drag these misfits out, kicking, crying, screaming, and whining and…  Hmmm, I’m limited for time.

UPDATES & NEW STUFF:

Geomorphic Provinces:

This new section defines tectonic activity throughout Callifornia.  I’ve tied it in with an online booklet about the San Andreas Fault.  I plan to list information about the faulting in each area as it applies to my projects- A very long way to go. 

At the same time I’m working in pages describing ecosections and subsections. These pages describe a bit about the general ecology of the areas.  Little by little I’ve been adding links to this information on pages I’ve been updating.  An example can be found at the bottom of the page on the history of Wildrose Kilns.  Auspicious, but you gotta start somewhere.

I’ve been quiet but busy.  Briefly, “some” of the recent updates and additions to the site(s) include;

Plant Adaptations - Ways plants have found their space in the desert.

How the Indians Used Plants - Mostly about using plants as food sources.  I’m hoping to expand this section into some detail.

A Historical Sketch of California Indians - Frankly, until the last 10 years or so, I had no idea. 

The Stamp Mill - Processing Gold Ore.

A Brief History of the Cajon Pass - So close to where I live, I don’t know why I put it off so long

Oasis of Mara - Twentynine Palms.

There’s much more and I’m running late.  Wish I could type faster.

See ya.