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  • From the Journal of Jedediah Smith

    “During my absence one of my Indian guides who had been imprisoned was released by death and the other was kept in the guard house at night and at hard labor during the day having the menial service of the guard house to perform. I took a convenient opportunity to speak to the Father in his behalf he told me he would do all in his power for his release.”

    ~ Journal of Jedediah Smith – 1826

  • A Strange Effect

    Often I have spent three, four days in the desert alone, without even seeing another human being. I love the solitude, the brush with loneliness. I don’t talk to myself. I already know what I’ll say in response. The silence, and then the wind, it’s soothing, I relish it.

    And I’ll leave to return to my little civilization, anxious for an interaction with my fellow man. A word, a smile, I’ll go into a store, a matter of convenience. I fix myself a cup of coffee. go to the counter and grin like an idiot. The clerk asks, “Will there be anything else for you today?” I shake my head from side to side. I do not care for the first word out of my mouth to be “No.”

    I pay and the clerk says, “You have a nice day.”

    I’m still grinning like an idiot.

    I go to say, “Yes, thank you, and you too.”

    My lips form the first word, but nothing comes out. My vocal chords are relaxed from not being used. Nothing comes out but a small, deep rumbling building up as I continue. I finish with the word, “… too” in a dark tone, about four octaves deeper than usual.

    I still have that foolish grin on my face.

    The clerk has a puzzled look on his.

    I flash him a ‘thumbs up.’ Then with one hand I act like I’m ‘signing’ something to him.

    He still has that puzzled look.

    I still have that stupid grin.

    I go out the door–embarrased.

    I get in the truck and try to sing “Sherry” by Franki Valli, in a high voice as I’m driving down the road. It comes out bizarre and awkward. It’s like the reverse effect of helium. It cracks me up.

    And I still have that grin on my face.

    ~w

  • Hesperia, California

    Photos of Hesperia, in the Victor Valley

  • The Day I Found GOLD!

    Check this out–I think it’s gold. The piece of quartz is very heavy for its size, and it sure looks like gold to me. I doubt it’s pyrite (fool’s gold). I’ll have an expert look at it next time he comes around, or I go over there. Until proven otherwise, that’s my story.

    picyure of gold in quartz
    Quartz with streak which might be gold, might not too!

    I’ve always been a bit leery of finding gold, so I don’t pay all that much attention. I figure if I found some I’d get the ‘fever’ and be good for nothing always looking for more. I like what I do out there and would rather keep doing it than be possessed by a never-ending search for the illusive yellow metal- That’s what happens sometimes.

    So when I picked this up I brought it home and threw it in a box. That was more than a few years ago. I forgot all about it until going through the whatnot I keep in the darkest recesses of my patio.

    I dragged the box out of the corner and looked inside. There it was. I picked it up and, man, was it heavy! I blew the dust off, got it a bit wet, and could see a somewhat speckled streak through it. “That’s gold,” I thought.

    It has been so long since I found it, and I know that wherever I picked it up, it was legal for me to do so. Just can’t remember where I got it. I do remember there was plenty more of it where I found it–that stuff was laying all over the place! This was the smallest piece.

    So, somewhere out there is a tiny fortune in gold, just laying there on the dirt. Amazing. I’m glad I can’t remember where I found it though. I still would rather take pictures than look around for rocks that would eventually break my heart not being what I thought they were.

  • And So On …

    A sunny clearing in the brush; Papa Quail cautiously steps into the edge, and again to survey the surroundings for movement, for the eyes of a predator or sign of danger. Several seconds the bird is motionless. Papa chirps and sends the high sign. Then a diminished brood, what was once six, or seven, or eight, follows–charges across the clearing with Mom Quail bringing up the rear. The children rush to the edge and frantically search for seeds, small bugs, nourishment for their tiny, rapidly growing bodies. Momma carefully watches the rear. Papa scouts ahead. And so on, and so on, and so on …

    Quail in the Mojave Desert
    Quail on the march …

  • The Hibernater

    Hard Rock Shorty of Death Valley

    Hard Rock Shorty was in a talkative mood, and the dudes lolling on the leanto porch in front of the Inferno store were making the most of it. They plied him with questions and
    Shorty always had an answer that amused them.

    “The laziest man I ever know’d was slower than a sand dune on a calm day,” Hard Rock  was saying.

    “Pisgah Bill an’ me found this feller sittin’ in his old jalopy which looked as if a flock o’ 17- year locusts had nested in it fer two seasons.

    “We asked him where he wuz goin’. ‘Nowheres,’ he said. ‘Don’t need nothin’ so why should I be bustlin’ around Iookin’ fer somethin’. Got a can o’ water an’ a box o’ eggs. Yu don’t need much to eat and drink if yu don’t move much,’ he splained.

    “I seen he wuz parked right in the path o’ one o’ them marchin’ sand dunes, an’ I warned him he’d better not stay there too long ’cause a big wind storm’d bury
    him.

    ” ‘Let ‘er march,’ he says. ‘If camels and tortoises can live buried in the sand, so can a
    superior bein’ like man.’

    “Me and Pisgah figgered we’d done all we could fer the crazy galoot, and we went on an’ left him sittin’ there with his box o’ eggs. It wuz five weeks before we came back that way agin, an’ there wuz that same good-fernothin’ sittin’ in the same spot where we left him. That sand dune had marched right over him and wuz jest leavin’ an the ol’ feller wuz shakin’ the sand outta his hair.

    “He told us he wuz- glad things happened the way they did. He’d had a nice long rest. He’d proved that man is as good as them hibernatin’ things like turtles, an’ that box of eggs had hatched out the finest batch o’ fluffy little chickens yu ever seen — which wouldn’t ‘ave happened if he had et the eggs in the first place.

    ” ‘Sure beats gallopin’ around the country,’ he says.”

    – Desert Magazine – Jan. 1958

  • Milt Stark – A Flower-Watcher’s Guide to Wildflowers of the Western Mojave Desert

    I’ve had the pleasure of meeting Milt several times.  His guide was the first book I bought describing wildflowers in the Mojave.  Very simple and straight forward I also learned quite a bit about the way people perceive color differently from one another.

    Written for people with no botanical knowledge who are curious about the names of wildflowers, this book is beautifully illustrated with 214 full-color photos arranged by color of flower. Each photo refers the reader to the text description of the flower, which includes the common and botanical name, areas where it is found, and possible uses by Native Americans and pioneers. Over 187 of the most common and significant wild plants found in the western Mojave Desert and bordering foothills and canyons are included. This guide should be in the glove box of every Southern Californian who ever vowed to take a ride out to the Antelope Valley to see the wildflower blooms. (Amazon)

    If you are interested in a copy of this or other quality desert books, I recommend buying them through the Mojave River Valley Museum in Barstow, CA.  Your purchase means so much to such a worthy cause.

    MVRM Book list

    A Flower-Watcher's Guide
    Milt Stark

  • August Updates

    Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad

    The Tonopah & Tidewater Railroad (T&T) operated between 1905 and 1938 servicing mines and communities along a route which extended north from Ludlow, California…

    http://mojavedesert.net/railroads/tonopah-and-tidewater/

  • Everett Ruess

    The story of a Boy who just Disappeared one day …

    Everett Ruess was not the first human being to vanish in the grim desert wilderness—nor is it likely he will be the last. But because of the unusual character of this young man and the strange circumstances of his disappearance, there still remains after four years of fruitless search a widespread interest in this desert mystery.

    Say that I kept My Dream

     

  • Coincidence, or What?

    According to the Mojave Desert Dictionary:

    The Sam Houston No. 1 Mine: A silver mine in the Calico Mountains that was discovered  by Hugh Stevens and sold to a Mr. Johnson, who then sold it to two Frenchmen for $40,000. They changed the name to Blackfoot Consolidated No.1 Mine.

    Then, oddly enough:

    The Sam Houston No. 2 Mine: A silver mine in the Calico Mountains that was discovered  by Hugh Stevens and sold to a Mr. Johnson, who then sold it to two Frenchmen for $40,000. They changed the name to Blackfoot Consolidated No.2 Mine.

    And to further complicate matters …

    The Sam Houston No. 3 Mine: A silver mine in the Calico Mountains that was discovered  by Hugh Stevens and sold to a Mr. Johnson, who then sold it to two Frenchmen for $40,000. They changed the name to Blackfoot Consolidated No.3 Mine.

    Mysterious, or what?

     

  • Lost City

    Burrowing into the sandhills of Southern Nevada, archeologists have uncovered the homes and utensils of a thriving Indian civilization which existed 300 or 400 years before Columbus discovered America. Now the rising waters of Lake Mead are about to submerge the Lost City and remove it permanently from the field of research. But in the meantime the men of science have uncovered a wealth of interesting facts about these ancient tribesmen. The highlights of their discoveries are presented in this story by Johns Harrington, son of the archeologist in charge of the excavations.

    Lost City of the Ancients to Vanish Again in Lake Mead

  • The Desert

    The desert . . .“reveals its true character only to those who come with courage, tolerance, and understanding.

    For those, the desert holds rare gifts.”

    ~ Randall Henderson – On Desert Trails

  • Horse Party

    Buffalo Bull, sends in this Red Mountain Story.

    A horse walks into a bar - Harry Oliver's Desert Rat ScrapbookA stranger tied his horse at the rail near the window of Slim Riffle’s Owl Cafe, and left to look over the crop of tomatoes. The horse put his head through the window and asked for a martini with a dash of horseradish. The bartender mixed it and handed it to him. The horse drank it smacking his lips.

    “I suppose it strange,” said the horse, “that I should ask for a martini with horseradish in it.”

    “Hell, no, said the bartender, “I like it that way myself.”

    Harry Oliver’s Desert Rat Scrapbook

  • The Man who Mapped California

    Thomas Wilson Dibblee, Jr. (1911-2004)

    Tom Dibblee was born in 1911 in Santa Barbara, California. He first became interested in geology in 1929, when his father hired a geologist to investigate the oil potential on the family property. After Tom graduated from Stanford University, he spent 16 years working for oil companies and then 25 years working for the U.S. Geological Survey. Much of this time was spent alone in the field making geologic maps of California. Tom retired in 1977 and became a Research Associate with the University of California Santa Barbara, and, at the request of the U.S. Forest Service, he began mapping the 1.2 million acres of the Los Padres National Forest. During his career, he mapped over 40,000 square miles of  California (about a quarter of the state), a feat that probably will never be equaled. Tom was the first man to map the entire San Andreas Fault. In fact, his early work  on the fault indicated that it had moved more than  300 miles, and this became a critical piece to  understanding plate tectonics.

    The nonprofit Thomas Wilson Dibblee Jr. Geological Foundation was created to publish and distribute his maps.

    Tom received the U.S. Geological Survey Distinguished Service Award in 1967, the American Association of Petroleum Geologists’ Human Needs Award in 1981, and the Presidential Volunteer Action Award from President Reagan in 1983.

    Tom passed away on November 24, 2004.

    source – USGS

    The San Andreas Fault

  • A Promising Outcropping

    Ask Mr. Know it All !!!411-outcropping-j472830

    Q. Where do I find gold in the desert?

    A. Gold is where you find it! Good luck with that. One tip I do have for you is you should look for a “promising outcropping.” Many of the stories I read have somewhere in there where it say the prospector came upon a “promising outcropping.” Cut to the chase and look for these first before anywhere else.

    Q. Have you ever done any prospecting?

    A. Hell no.

    *** GOLD MINES ***

  • If You Ever …

    If you’ve ever wondered what a young cottontop cactus sitting in the shade of a hedgehog cactus at the last second or so of direct light during sunset, what that looks like- This is a picture of that.
    599-cactus-mound-cottontop-r3820
    Cactus of the Mojave Desert

  • Gambel’s Quail

    A common resident of Colorado and Mojave Desert regions of southeastern California. Preferred habitats include desert riparian, and a wide variety of other desert types, especially near streams, springs, and water holes.

    Gambel’s quail
    Callipepla gambelii
    gambel's quail, Mojave Desert wildlife

    Gambel’s Quail
  • Desert Wife – Desert Life

    Check out how I made this into a story relevant to the desert:

    Walter Feller photography truck in desert
    My Chevy — camouflage white. I can blend in alongside a big pile of salt or in a desert snowstorm.

    My desert wife went to the desert store today, then comes back to our desert home and tells me she finds $25 in cash on the floor of the desert store. Wo0T-w0ot-WOot!!! My thoughts start racing and I begin calculating all the numbers involved. How cool–I could use her money to buy me gas to drive about 150 miles out into the desert! Then she tells me that she gave it to the clerk at the store. Now I can’t use her money that she found to drive about 150 miles out into the desert. Then she tells me the clerk told her that if the money isn’t claimed by the end of the day, the store would call her and they would give it to her.  I have hope. If it is unclaimed and they give it back her and I could drive out into the desert about 150 miles with gas I bought with her money. Then we get a phone call from a little girl who lost the money that my wife found thanking her for finding the money she lost. Now for sure I can’t use my wife’s money to buy the gas to drive about 150 miles into the desert.

    I suppose they way everything went is for the better. $25 can be a lot to lose, especially for a kid. Reluctantly, I admit, my wife, who by the way, is always right, did the right thing. Thinking about it, if I would have used the money to buy enough gas to drive 150 miles out into the desert, well, how would I have been able to buy the gas to drive back?

  • Atlatl

    Atlatl:  An atlatl is a throwing stick that essentially extends arm length to assist in throwing a dart harder and farther than one normally would in hunting and warfare with a spear.  This tool was used for thousands of years prior to the bow and arrow which was in use for only the last 900 years or so. I’ve had the opportunity to try using one 3 or 4 times in target practice–sort of I say “sort of” because the very first time I used one I went after live game.

    I was on an archaeology field trip and we broke for lunch.  Food was provided and substantial consisting of bologna sandwiches, chips, a piece of fruit and some soda pop. The site archaeologist was running a little late, so our guide decided to let us try throwing with the atlatl he had made.  One after another the members of our group took turns. I watched carefully and when it came to be my turn I was ready.  All of a sudden, a pickup drove up and the archaeologist started to get out.  He was about 50 yards away.  He started to get out of the truck and as the door opened I hurled the dart hard and smoothly.  I was aiming for the meaty part of the archaeologist’s thigh.

    All I’ve heard about hunting man was true. It was exhilarating and exciting.  He was considerably larger than me and bagging him would have been a rush.  Unfortunately, a kill would not be the case on that day.  The dart landed short of him and went point first into the ground then fell over flat.  Now the predator had turned into the prey.  For me it was either fight or flight.  My back was against a rock wall. As I mentioned, he was larger than I, so I tried the only defensive move I could think of.  I yelled, “Oops!”

    Archaeology field trip
    A substantial and satisfying lunch break

    I’ve never heard a professional laugh so hard.  I didn’t know they could.  Usually I’ve found them to be quite stolid and impassive to my attempts at humor. Apparently he did not feel threatened.  Good thing he didn’t realize my intention. I could have killed him, or at least bruised his foot.

    It all turned out well considering the circumstances.  Rather than be banned or shunned from the group he paid special attention to me the rest of the day making sure all of my questions were properly answered. He kept watching my hands though. He turned out to be a pretty nice guy.  Very sorry I tried to kill him.

     

  • Malapai Hill

    Malapai Hill, Geology Tour Road, Joshua Tree National Park
    The twin peaks of Malapai Hill rise about 400 feet above the valley floor. The black basalt that composes the hill is …  click the photo for more information …

    Malapai Hill - Joshua Tree National Park
     Malapai Hill

  • Casa del Desierto

    Harvey House, Casa del Desierto, Barstow, CA. 2002: built 1911.

    Casa del Desierto
    Casa del Desierto

  • Every Desert Site needs a Picture of One of These!

    Horned Lizard

    horned lizard, desert wildlife
    Horned lizard

    What can you say?- These little guys hide by staying ~real still~. They eat ants and squirt acrid blood from their eyes when attacked. I think. I’m not an expert– However, it’s just a lizard anyway. Don’t eat!

  • Needles – Topock, Az.

    My wife didn’t believe the colors were authentic, until we spent some time watching a sunset there.

    Needles formation, Needles California
    The Needles formation – Topock, Az.

     

  • Tonopah, Nevada

    Tonopah is a small community with a population of about 2,600. Tonopah is located at the junction of U.S. Routes 6 and 95 approximately half-way… (click the photo for more information on Tonopah)

    Tonopah, Nevada, mining town
    Tonopah, Nevada

     

     

  • A Quick Tour of the Mojave

    The Whole Mojave A-Z

    The Mojave High Desert is one desert rather than a series of separate entities- That we are the same through the diversity that binds us. By becoming aware of our combined identity, we may be able to appreciate, and better understand issues affecting our Mojave Desert on a holistic level. In this presentation we meander back and forth across the Mojave Desert in photographs to illustrate this concept.

    Map of Mojave Desert

  • Furnace Creek Sunrise

    Sometimes you can get caught in an imperfect sunrise.  Sunrise shots don’t always work out.  Sometimes you just have to get out of it what you can–even if it’s just understanding you’ve lived to see another sunrise.

    599-furnace-creek-sunrise-j7381

  • The Basketmaker of the Desert

    By MARY BEAL

    Nearly every desert visitor knows Evening Primrose—but not all of them know that the white-ribbed “baskets” so often found rooted in the sand are the dried stalks of this lovely white flower which blossoms at night and takes a siesta when the sun comes out….Continued Here

  • Like the Sahara Desert

    Hard Rock Shorty of Death Valley

    “This place must be a great deal like the Sahara desert,” remarked one of the tourists who had stopped at the Inferno store to ask about the location of Death Valley Scotty’s mine.
    “Do you ever see any ostriches or camels wandering around over these barren sand dunes?”

    “Not any more,” said Hard Rock Shorty. “Usta be some ostriches here, but Ol’ Pisgah Bill got rid of ’em. They wuz too dumb to do any work, an’ they kept eatin’ up his grub. He finally gave ’em all to the zoo down in Los Angeles.

    “Bill had a good idea—only it didn’t work. It was back in the old days when the wimen wuz all wearin’ ostrich plumes on their hats. Ostrich farms wuz springin’ up everywhere. Bill read in the papers about a big ostrich ranch down in Phoenix which sold $60,000 worth of feathers in one year.

    “So Bill sent to the gov’ment printin’ office an’ got all the information he could about ostriches. The more he read the more certain he was that them big birds ‘d thrive in Death Valley. ‘They eat anything,’ he explained, ‘an’ they don’t drink much water. Death Valley’s just the place fer ostriches.’

    “The next winter Bill hit a purty good pocket in that gold mine o’ his over in the Panamints, an’ as soon as he got his returns from the mill he sent down to Phoenix to buy a couple o’ them ostriches.

    “Bill’s idea wuz to make ’em work fer a livin’. He’d train ’em to pack out ore like a burro, an’ when pluckin’ time came he’d gather a few feathers—and that would be an extra bit o’ profit.

    “Trouble wuz, them ostriches did jes what all the books said they’d do—they ate everything. Second morning after Bill got ’em into camp up in Eight Ball crick one o’ them big birds stuck his head in the window o’ Bill’s little shack an’ swallered Bill’s can o’ coffee. The other bird saw what wuz goin’ on and it reached in an’ took the coffee pot in one gulp. Bill had to keep the house locked, the windows closed, and all his tools out o’ sight, cause them birds jest gobbled up everything layin’ around.

    “An’ to make it worse, the only way Pisgah could get ’em to pack rock wuz to walk ahead of them carryin’ something to eat. They wuz too dumb to learn, an’ the burros didn’t like ’em either.

    “The final showdown came  one mornin’ when one of them ostriches walked into the mine tunnel and swallered three sticks o’ dynamite. As it came out it passed close to one of the burros, and the animal hauled off an’ gave it a kick. The explosion killed the burro, blew down the shack, an’ the bird was sick fer a week. That wuz the last straw. Bill gave the ostriches to the zoo.”

    ~ from Desert Magazine – June 1958